Exploring cultures and communities – the slow way

Karlos Zurutuza, a regular contributor to hidden europe, tracks down an intriguing church in the heart of Yerevan, capital of Armenia.

article summary —

It takes a bit of finding despite what they say in Yerevan. "You won't miss it" they'll tell you. "It's right in the city centre". And so it is, hidden away near the junction of Sayat Nova and Abovyan street. But it is not until the man at the corner waves you on into a courtyard that you get to see the 'Katoghike' church.

This is the most extraordinary of Yerevan churches - the oldest in a city full of churches.

This is just an excerpt. If you are a subscriber to hidden europe magazine, you can log in to read the full text online. Of course you can also read the full article in the print edition of hidden europe 17.


Karlos Zurutuza has been covering human rights and conflict along parallel 33 (from Western Sahara to Eastern Baluchistan) for the past 15 years. Other than in hidden europe, his work has been published in prominent media outlets such as Al Jazeera, IPS News Vicenews, The Middle East Eye and The Guardian, among many others. He has also published several books, his latest being Tierra Adentro (Libros del KO, 2018), which covers seven years of ground reporting in Libya.

This article was published in hidden europe 17.