If you have had your fill of Zagreb murals (see feature above), head north from the city centre to the cemetery at Mirogoj. This is one of Europe’s truly great cemeteries. It was created in 1876 on the former estate of Ljudevit Gaj, one of the leaders of the Croatian National Revival of the 1840s. There are stately Illyrian arcades with monuments to many of the poets and thinkers who helped shape the Croatian National Revival.

At Mirogoj, there are Orthodox and Catholic graves, Jewish and Muslim ones too, and memorials to dedicated socialists who created postwar Yugoslavia.