As we report in railscan, many overnight trains have been axed, but, especially within the CIS countries, there remain a few hidden gems. Ukraine is a good place to start. There is a good choice of fast trains from the capital Kyjiv to the western city of L'viv. One way fares are from just €7, including a berth, or about €25 for a first class sleeper. But even better, book a cabin in the private sleeping car owned and managed by L'viv's Grand Hotel (www.ghgroup.com.ua/ gtcarriage.htm). This special carriage runs most nights attached to trains 91 and 92. The socalled 'Grand Tour' carriage offers red and gold style, with plush furnishing, real wood decor and complimentary drinks and snacks. At just €32 one way, it has to be one of the best travel deals anywhere in Europe. Tickets can not be purchased through Ukrainian Railways, but only via the Grand Hotel.