FEATURES:

• where empires collide: Zemun, Serbia (by Laurence Mitchell)
• of obstacles and opportunities: the Rhine Falls
• Devon's hidden churches (by Hilary Bradt)
• Croatia's Lonjsko polje and Turopolje (by Rudolf Abraham)

SPECIAL SPACES: Eastern encounter: perspective on the German capital

PERSPECTIVE: Switzerland beyond the Alps

FAITH: the mystery of the mikveh

TIMING: changing horizons: new hope for Kharkiv and Kazan

PEOPLE: so what really needs correcting here (by Nigel Roberts)

BOOKS: competing with the guidebook

OFF LIMITS: old submarines come home to die: Severodvinsk

SNIPPETS AND MORE:

• supersitious minds
• sea and Sardinia
• Polish connections
• cruise ferry update
• preview